Peru Adventuring – Day 2 – Lima

Continuing on from the airport post as Day 1 was really Day 1 & 2 kinds rolled together.  Red eye flights will do that to you. 

I’m here in Lima all safe and sound.  Sitting on a rooftop terrace as horns blare, dogs complain about passersby and kids scamper on the street below.  It’s a big city that’s for sure.  $18 gets you from the airport to the city center.  Another 20 minute walk gets you to the real center of town. 

I’ve learned some things today.  I’ve learned my laptop can in fact bounce and survive.  I’ve learned I still don’t sleep well on airplanes.  I’ve learned all the warnings in books are good, while at the same time, my comfort level increases when I get out amongst the masses.  And I’ve learned that I really like Peru, a place that only held a passing fancy in my past.  yes, I used the word ‘fancy’, sorry if that offends you.

I first caught site of the country before the sun was fully up.  The Andes were mixed in with clouds slowly turning a deep shade of orange.  Nearer to me the coast was covered with low clouds.  Soon after passing through the clouds to land at an overcast Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chávez, I was through Immigration and Customs with no troubles.  Things were looking up.  I grabbed one of the taxi driver’s inside after having read cautions about other, less scrupulous, drivers elsewhere. Jorge knew about as much English as I knew Spanish but I said enough right things to get us driving in the right direction.  Using his cell phone, we agreed on a price and were off towards City Center. 

The city didn’t appear much different than it did from the air.  The air is still choked with smog which my lungs remind me is less than optimal.  The streets are crowded and there is the ever present swerving form of driving, my favorite.  I like that driving rules can bend a bit as long as everyone gets where they are going.   People in the US think that kind of driving leads to anarchy.  They should get out and visit some large cities in third world countries some time to learn people adapt and it ends up being ok.   We pass a speed trap and Jorge informs me it’s 600 soles if they take a picture of you speeding.  That’s more than 10 times the fare I’m paying him.  Post speed: 45KPH.  Our speed: 25KPH.

I’m staying at Hostal Iquique and it’s great for the price; clean, not on too bust of a street, comfy and the rooftop terrace has pool and foosball.  And a bootleg version of Kung Fu Panda in Chinese.  I spent the morning (7am arrival at the hostel) using my computer to make some plans.  Since then I’ve ironed out my next few days which include a stay in a bio-reserve, accommodations in Cusco and a 5 day trek on the Inca Trail.  I’m pretty psyched but still need to line up some rafting.  it shouldn’t be a problem, I have at least 4 lay days.

After getting the plans settled I promptly took a nap.  It’s 9:45pm now and I should be well on my way to getting on ‘East coast’ time tonight.  After the nap it was time for some adventuring around town. 

Lima is a big city.  It’s big, brown, loud but not too crowded on the sidewalks.  The streets are plenty crowded when I stepped out around rush hour.  I  decided to check out the Lima Modern Art Museum but was told by the guard I was prohibited from entering.  He smiled when he said it, and there were a lot of other words.  but the one I picked out was prohibited.  The body language helped too.  Bummer.  I then wandered around and got a bit lost.  Please don’t tell my parents this part.  Not really lost, but not really sure of where I was.  I found some common landmarks (the Sharton here is HUGE!) and it helped the sun was getting low, so West was easy to find.  In no time I had found an ATM, got out some soles and was eating dinner in a local restaurant.

I enjoyed watching the traffic and people passing by and just relaxing.  After reading all the warnings about street crime, petty and otherwise, I was on guard most of the day.  While not completely letting my guard down, it was nice to enjoy a meal in what was obviously a family establishment.  The chicken and fires were yummy with a deep seasoning and plenty of salt on the fries.  In a weird way I also enjoyed the fact that no one in the city so far has attempted to speak English to me.  It may seem odd, but I like it.   Well, some of the people at the hostel speak English, but they are travelers.  🙂

Guards are everywhere as well as National, local and transit police.  I passed by a caged up building with no identification but with many, many armed soldiers walking about.  I keep my eyes focused, head partially down and always look like I know where I’m going, even if I don’t.  I don’t feel threatened, but I will be happy to be some place other than a large city.

Right now the clouds are orange from the city lights.  There might be a moon but it is hid behind the constant haze/clouds.  Someone is yelling crazy things on the street.  Our hostel has many bars on the windows.  That dog hasn’t stopped barking and I need to get up for an early flight tomorrow.